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Do you enjoy hiking
trails in deep woodlands and viewing panoramic scenes high above the Illinois
River from sandstone bluffs, watching and listening to birds singing in
natural settings, viewing eagles swooping to catch fish or just sitting
by the campfire in peace and solitude? Then there is something for you
at Starved
Rock State Park near Utica, Illinois.
This park is a wonderful gift from Mother Nature, surprising us with deep
canyons cutting through the flat, fertile prairie. Each spring, after
the winter thaw and spring rains, sparkling waterfalls can be found flowing
at the heads of the 18 canyons. Glaciers moving through the area and stream
erosion formed the four miles of rugged terrain that hug the south side
of the Illinois River.
Missions and Forts
The area is rich in history with tales of Father Jacques Marquette and
Louis Jolliet's early explorations the region. Pere, or Father, Marquette
established the first Christian mission in Illinois on the river two miles
from the park. The French established Fort Saint Louis des Illinois on
the bluff from 1682-1691. The French later abandoned the fort during the
French and Indian wars. Fort St. Louis was once a well-established home
to trappers and traders, but by 1720 nothing was left of the fort.
The bluff became known as Starved Rock when the Illiniwek, or Illini tribe
of Kaskaskia Indians, were stranded on top of the rock in 1760, surrounded
by the Potawatami Indians. The tribes had been battling each other since
the murder of the Illini Chief Pontiac.
The Illiniwek climbed the 125-foot-high sandstone bluff looking for safety,
but instead the rock became a fatal trap when their enemies surrounded
them. Their proud tradition would not allow them to surrender to their
hated adversaries, so the Illini chose to stay on the rock and starve
to death.
Woodland Spirits
When hiking through the trails, the woodlands seem to be filled with the
spirits of the Native Americans who have made their home in this land.
The Illiniwek lived here from the 1500s to 1700s. A village of 5,000 to
7,000 Kaskaskia Indians was located along the bank of the river across
from the site of the state park.
Take a Hike
There are currently 13 miles of clearly marked hiking trails at Starved
Rock State Park and another five miles at nearby Matthiessen
State Park. The trails are open all year. Hikers are urged to stay
on the clearly marked trails.
Every season offers a hiking treat for the nature lover. Matthiessen State
Park boasts beautiful cross-country ski trails. One of the more unusual
winter sports is ice climbing at Starved Rock when the colder temperatures
turn the park into a winter wonderland. The Winter Wilderness Weekend,
Eagle Watch Weekend in January and Cross-Country Ski Weekend in February
are great opportunities to enjoy these cold-weather sports and to see
the parks wearing their winter cloaks.
Seasonal Color
Abundant spring wildflowers draw many of the 1.6 million yearly visitors
here, as well as breathtaking fall colors in October. Black oak, red cedar,
white oak and pines grow on the dry sandy bluff tops while farther from
the bluffs are red oaks and hickories. Black willow, cottonwood and ash
also contribute to this lush woodland. American witch hazel, black huckleberry
and bracken fern grace the forest floor. All of these make excellent cover
for the wildlife such as deer, woodchucks and rabbits. A variety of birds:
Nuthatches, chickadees, yellowbellied sapsuckers, scarlet tanagers and
cedar waxwings also make their homes in the woods.
Visitor Center
A new $4 million visitor center opened in October 2002, dedicated to educating
generations of visitors in the area's history, geology and ecology. The
rangers are helpful, offering suggestions for viewing the canyons and
waterfalls, choosing hiking trails to fit your needs and guiding you on
informational walks on weekends during the summer season.
The hub of the park is the Starved Rock Lodge and Conference Center that
is situated on a bluff overlooking the Illinois River. The stone and log
lodge transports the visitor back to the early 1930s when the lodge was
built by the Civilian Conservation Corps. The view from the spacious lodge
deck is awe-inspiring.
The 13-foot-high ceilings in the Great Hall, the double stone fireplace,
rustic furnishings, limestone floors and touches of Indian designs in
furniture and rugs combine to offer a setting for relaxation and conversation
in the spacious room. The 200-seat dining room offers large windows for
viewing the wooded vistas and serves delicious full-course meals seven
days a week. Adjacent to the Great Hall is a gift shop and in the new
wing, there is a café serving sandwiches and snacks. The historic
lodge celebrates its 75th anniversary in 2004.
"There is something for everybody here at the park," says Tammy
Barry, vice president of marketing and business development. "Visitors
can enjoy the quiet and remote atmosphere or join in the many and varied
activities."
Hide & Seek
One of the old-fashioned activities at the Lodge is letter-boxing. A letterbox
is hidden in the Lodge. Visitors read the clues passed out at the desk
in the lobby in order to find the hidden box. When found, they date and
stamp the journal discovered in the box with their personal stamp leaving
their mark in history. Barry said that when hiding one of the boxes, they
discovered another letter box that had been hidden in the Lodge many years
before.
More of the varied activities include fishing in remote Matthiessen Lake
and in the Illinois River for catfish, bullhead, white bass, sauger, walleye
and crappie, rides on the Belle of the Rock boat excursion, rental of
canoes, pontoon boats and paddle boats, white water rafting, horseback
riding, biking, sky diving and touring the historic area on Rocky, the
Starved Rock trolley.
Historical Venues
In the immediate area are museums and information about the Illinois and
Michigan Canal, Abraham Lincoln's presence in the area-including the site
of the first debate with Stephen Douglas in Ottawa, Ill.-historic mansions,
the W.D.Boyce Memorial to the founder of Boy Scouts of America and the
Scouting museum are more of the interesting sights to see and enjoy.
Campers will enjoy the opportunity to set up camp year 'round in a natural
setting at Starved Rock and Matthiessen State Parks. An equestrian campground
is located at Matthiessen along Illinois Route 178. The camp sites at
Starved Rock are wooded and vary in size, but each has a gravel parking
area, picnic table and metal burn grill where only wood fires are allowed.
Starved Rock has 133 sites with electricity. Water spigots are located
throughout the property and are easily accessible. Sites 1-58 are on a
first-come, first-served basis, but sites 59-133 may be reserved from
May 1-October 31. There is also a separate youth group camping area and
a children's playground. No alcohol is allowed in the campgrounds. There
is no fee to enter the Illinois State Parks, but note that there is a
$5 non-refundable reservation fee. The campgrounds are maintained "to
provide camping in a natural setting as part of the outdoor recreational
experience."
The many possibilities for fun and adventure will keep you returning to
experience each season of natural beauty along the Illinois River.
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